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  1. #211
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    I wanted to bump this thread, but I don't really have much to add.

    I haven't worked on this project since last fall, and a lot of my summer will be used up recovering from surgery to have a brain tumor removed. I sure hope to start working on this thing again this fall, or maybe next spring.

    I have all the parts I need to finish the chassis, except for random hardware I might need. And the body is damn near ready to set on the chassis so I can figure out body mounts. And the drivetrain has been sitting on my workbench waiting to have motor mounts made for it. Again, I have most of the materials, I just need to put in the labor, and I can't right now.

    If you know how to weld, and you want to help work on this project, maybe you could come out and help with it while I am recovering. I could supervise, hand you beers, and you could make me feel better that progress is being made even though I can't do it. Just thinking out loud.

  2. #212
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Elk River/Big Lake
    Posts
    4,526
    Car
    71 Fastback

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    I could definitively come over but I'm a terrible welder. Shoot me a message if you have a day or weekend that you're free.

  3. #213
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    Quote Originally Posted by euro View Post
    I could definitively come over but I'm a terrible welder. Shoot me a message if you have a day or weekend that you're free.
    I will keep you in mind. Thanks!

  4. #214
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    St. Cloud, MN
    Posts
    4,686
    Car
    337, Scirocco, GT, Ranger

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    Once I'm all settled after moving out of my shop and into my garage, I'd be happy to help. I have a portable TIG setup now.
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    Now is where I politely tell you to go fuck yourself.

  5. #215
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    We are in that Second Winter, Early Spring time of year. I have fully recovered from my surgery, and I plan to make progress on the hot rod this year. Maybe in the next month or two.

    The next steps are to finish the welding on the rear part of the frame where I notched it. I have it tacked together, just need to finish weld.

    Then once the frame is ready, I need to fabricate the hairpin and radius rod rear suspension. I am currently doing research on how to do the geometry on that to get it right. I bought a rear suspension kit from Speedway, but it consists of weld on tabs. They leave it up to you to figure out where everything goes. But since I have the kit, I have most or all of the parts I need to build the suspension.

    Do any of you know how to layout a hairpin and radius rod rear suspension? Or have good links for laying one out?
    Last edited by toasted; 03-12-2020 at 01:37 PM.

  6. #216
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Afton, MN
    Posts
    1,078
    Car
    2006 VW Jetta TDi

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    I've used this suspension calculator in the past, albeit with jeep related suspensions:

    https://www.patooyee.com/calculators/calculators.htm

  7. #217
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kriesel View Post
    I've used this suspension calculator in the past, albeit with jeep related suspensions:

    https://www.patooyee.com/calculators/calculators.htm
    I'll save that in case I need it for a 3-link or 4-link suspension. Thank you.

    Maybe this hairpin and radius rod suspension is really simple and I don't need a calculator?

  8. #218
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    StP
    Posts
    18,585
    Car
    E30 M3, B8.5 S4, Tacoman

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    The hairpins seem really simple. I would think you’d want them to pitch down from the frame to axle, just a bit when sitting static. And the range of motion under load would bring them nearly level.

    when you say radius rod in this case, are you referring to a setup similar to a panhard bar?

  9. #219
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerTim View Post
    The hairpins seem really simple. I would think you’d want them to pitch down from the frame to axle, just a bit when sitting static. And the range of motion under load would bring them nearly level.

    when you say radius rod in this case, are you referring to a setup similar to a panhard bar?
    The more I look into this, the more I think you are right, Tim.

    I think this really is more just a matter of making sure I weld on the brackets symmetrically, in a way that allows the hairpins to do their thing. I have seen hot rods that are lowered and the hairpins angle up to the axle. They look odd though. And my build will not be that low.

    And yet, I think the radius rod and panhard bar are two terms for the same thing.

  10. #220
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    StP
    Posts
    18,585
    Car
    E30 M3, B8.5 S4, Tacoman

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    I've only heard panhard bar used to refer to the left-right link used to keep a rear axle centered. I've heard a radius rob used to describe multiple different single end point suspension arms. I really don't know for sure.

    That being said, you are using the radius/panhard in the traditional keeping the rear axle centered fashion, yes?

    I'm pretty excited to see this thing move along. Glad you're doing well.

  11. #221
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    Yeah, the hairpins are on either side and attach the axle to the frame. The panhard bar, or radius rod (a term I read somewhere, I'm more familiar with the term panhard bar), will be used to stop side to side movement.

    UPDATE: Finally after this project has stalled out for a year, I got out in the shop and made some progress. I put some more work into the 3" rear frame Z.

    Top portion of the Z. Welds ground smooth.
    https://flic.kr/p/2iPnkPm
    https://flic.kr/p/2iPjDbP





    And got started on the bottom gussets, and put a fish plate on there as well.

    https://flic.kr/p/2iPqycY
    https://flic.kr/p/2iPoSnP


    My welds look like complete shit.
    And I can't get img links to work, so you get to click on links.
    Last edited by toasted; 04-12-2020 at 08:43 PM.

  12. #222
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Afton, MN
    Posts
    1,078
    Car
    2006 VW Jetta TDi

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    Quote Originally Posted by toasted View Post
    My welds look like complete shit.
    Some welding humor, not criticism:

    Someone told me once that they had a welding teacher who said: "Grinding your welds makes you a grinder, not a welder" haha

    I think the same welding teacher said something like "don't use a welder as a caulking gun". I'm guilty of this one a lot hahaha

    Progress is progress! Keep it up!

  13. #223
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kriesel View Post
    Some welding humor, not criticism:

    Someone told me once that they had a welding teacher who said: "Grinding your welds makes you a grinder, not a welder" haha

    I think the same welding teacher said something like "don't use a welder as a caulking gun". I'm guilty of this one a lot hahaha

    Progress is progress! Keep it up!
    HAHA

    I am totally a grinder.

    I improve everytime I pick up the welder. But I still suck. However I do think I am welding well enough that the welds are strong enough for what I am trying to do.

  14. #224
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,069
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

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    I'm in a group on Facebook that is all about swapping Saab engines into other cars. In this group there was a discussion about RWD setups.

    So I bought that custom bellhousing, had a clutch disc made, and bought a special pilot bearing, so the T5 from a 4cyl fox body Mustang would fit the Saab engine. The one thing I was a little disappointed with about this setup is the 4cyl T5 transmission I am using is supposedly only rated for like 250 ft/lbs of torque. This means I can't upgrade the motor much, I am already at the top end of what the transmission can handle.

    Well, in this RWD discussion I found a new option that I might switch to.

    There is a company that makes a complete kit that includes an adaptor, flywheel, and clutch kit, so you can put a ZF5 from an E46 BMW on the back of the Saab engine. This transmission can handle much more power than what I currently have, so I can make engine upgrades later.

    So when I get back to work full time, and get closer to putting the engine in the chassis, I'll have to check this kit out.

  15. #225
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Elk River/Big Lake
    Posts
    4,526
    Car
    71 Fastback

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    Chad, that company doesn't happen to be Kennedy engineering products does it? That sounds a lot like the adapter plate set i bought for the fastback to put a EJ22 to a Type 3/Type 1 VW engine. came with adapter plate, pressure plate and hardware (didn't order a clutch)

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