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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,071
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

    Default Anyone here good with body work and rust repair?

    I need to talk with someone on here that is good with body work and rust repair. I don't want to go to a shop and waste their time, I just want someone with body work knowledge to give me an honest opinion about my car.

    Now that I have replaced the doors and the hood that were VERY rusty I just want an idea if the rest of my car is fixable.

    Here are the issues I know of off hand:

    1. There is bad rust in the front fenders, but the fenders are all welded on as part of the framework, so they can't just be replaced. I imagine the easiest way to fix these is to cut out and patch.

    2. The hatch is rusty as well. I found a couple hatches for sale, but they aren't local. I guess I'll man up and eat the shipping.

    3. From what I can see, the undersides of this car are ok. The trunk floor is clean. The suspension is all crusty, but I haven't seen a 20 year old car that wasn't.


    So what I am looking for is someone that knows what they are looking at when it comes to rust repair and body work. I would like you to take a look over my car, if possible, get it up on a lift and look under it as well. Give it to me straight whether it can be fixed up with some elbow grease and welding.

    I am totally not expecting to be able to save it, but I want to know for sure either way. If it can be saved, I would like to park it and start pulling it apart and cleaning it up.

    So, if you know bodywork and rust, please PM me. I don't have money, but if this is done at my house I could BBQ you a meal, supply beer, or if you need help with something, let me know.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts
    42,423
    Car
    72 911T, '12 Jetta, Tahoe

    Default

    the fenders are welded on? that just seems silly...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    duluth
    Posts
    16,519
    Car
    01 TDI, 85 jetta camper

    Default

    Yeah, that was my reaction when I learned that.

    I would think you could cut/drill the spot welds and put a new used one in, no?
    Quote Originally Posted by Driv3r View Post
    Look man don't start talking shit!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Olympia, WA
    Posts
    9,366
    Car
    BMW 228i, VW Cabriolet

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Digital K View Post
    the fenders are welded on? that just seems silly...
    Its a Saab

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Highland MF'n Park
    Posts
    17,227
    Car
    Ferd Fercus

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hamradio View Post
    Yeah, that was my reaction when I learned that.

    I would think you could cut/drill the spot welds and put a new used one in, no?
    It would be just as much work to cut and patch, might even be easier to cut and patch. Too bad you can't cut at most junkyards. All you really need to do is mark and cut out your bad spots, use your cutout as a template and cut that same off a good one, then weld it in place with a million small tack welds spaced so you don't overheat and warp the metal.
    "There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self." - Ernest Hemingway


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    duluth
    Posts
    16,519
    Car
    01 TDI, 85 jetta camper

    Default

    Go out in the sticks and find one of the muddy rutted up type junkyards that lets you cut.
    Quote Originally Posted by Driv3r View Post
    Look man don't start talking shit!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts
    42,423
    Car
    72 911T, '12 Jetta, Tahoe

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TTaM View Post
    Its a Saab
    I suppose. seems to me that would equal a lot more older saabs being totalled out from minor fender benders.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,071
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

    Default

    Yeah, so any input from some that can help me determine if my car is worth fixing up would be great.

    If you look my car over, there are spots of surface rust on almost every panel. There aren't many places that are horrible though, just the front fenders mainly.

    I haven't looked under the carpets yet, but I know the floor under the back seat and in the trunk is good.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts
    42,423
    Car
    72 911T, '12 Jetta, Tahoe

    Default

    at what point would just buying a clean one make more sense? they aren't a pricey car right?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    8,913
    Car
    Touareg. XC70. F430.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Digital K View Post
    at what point would just buying a clean one make more sense? they aren't a pricey car right?
    That's kinda what I was thinking. Not sure how much effort/money I would want to sink into a ~$800 car.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts
    42,423
    Car
    72 911T, '12 Jetta, Tahoe

    Default

    I'll never ever buy a rusty mk1 again. and rust repair on those is actually fairly easy depending. Its just not worth it. I feel like a debbie downer here.... but.... You might sink a lot of time into something and have mediocre results when you could start fresh and be miles ahead.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,071
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

    Default

    Finding a clean one is hard. Most of them rust in the fenders like mine and the one hammy just bought. Plus I would like a long-term project, something I could put in the garage and work on as I have time and money.

    Really I think that it's just minor repairs here and there, what I am concerned with are the front fenders and wheelwells. Thats why I want a trained eye to look it over and tell me if I'm wasting my time by trying to fix it up.

    Again, I am fully expecting this car to be too rough to waste the time on, but I want to know for sure before I give up on the idea.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLP
    Posts
    695
    Car
    Saab 9-3

    Default

    If you are not a body person it's generally best to get the cleanest shell you can afford and overlook certain options you would normally like a car to have. (eg. Manual transmission as you can swap for that later.) Assuming of course you are mechanically inclined.

    As for a body guy I will ask around.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    10,071
    Car
    '18 Camry, '30 Chevy

    Default

    Ok, I found a c900 on CL that appears to be WAY cleaner than mine but it has mechanical issues. For those of you that have been under the hood of these things, how difficult is a motor swap?

    I have done motor swaps before, mainly on VWs.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLP
    Posts
    695
    Car
    Saab 9-3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by toasted View Post
    Ok, I found a c900 on CL that appears to be WAY cleaner than mine but it has mechanical issues. For those of you that have been under the hood of these things, how difficult is a motor swap?

    I have done motor swaps before, mainly on VWs.
    The best approach is to remove motor and tranny all at once. Make sure you have a decently heavy duty cherry picker for this job. For the most part it's standard motor pulling.

    Does the CL shell have the same tranny? Are they similar years?

    I know JK has done this more than a few times. Palmer I know has done it as well.

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