Project Tow Mater. 1955 Dodge C3-B Pickup.

[Sven7]

You can't put an original plate on the rear, only the front can have an original plate in MN.

Any old car eligible for collector plates can run original Minnesota plates as long as you register it as such and they are in good, readable condition.

[toasted]

bro i'm tellin you three inches lower would look boss.

Lowering my truck 3" is like lowering a mk1 VW like 10mm. A waste. lol

[toasted]

[aaronmjr]

Nice pictures. And the truck looked and sounded really good last week.

[toasted]

Thanks man.

I am still having vapor lock issues. The heat we have had lately is only making it worse.

The fuel line is as far from the heat as I can get it for being on the same side as the exhaust, plus the whole engine bay gets REALLY hot with that huge radiator and cast iron boat anchor of an engine. I ran it on that side because I didn't want to pull the original tank out of there yet.

So now I need to plumb the fuel line to go across to the drivers side, up the frame, back across under the radiator support, and then up to the carb. Plus I need to move the electric pump out of the engine bay and locate it closer to the tank.

I may also buy a fuel line cooler of some sort, I don't know.

[palmer]

Open the hood when you park.

[Sven7]

Could you wrap the fuel line with the stuff people put on headers?

[toasted]

Open the hood when you park.

I took the truck downtown for those photos and back and I had to stop a couple times and do just that.

[Jigs]

Why dont you add in a fuel return line to prevent vapor locking?

Also do you have a vent on your current gas tank?

[toasted]

Why dont you add in a fuel return line to prevent vapor locking?

Pardon me if these are dumb questions, I have never had to deal with vapor lock before.

How would that help?
How do I do a return line on a carb and a fuel system with only about 6psi of pressure?

EDIT: Yes, the keg I am using for a tank has a true filler neck and vented cap from a more modern car on it. True filler neck meaning there is the hole to put the pump in and vent holes below that pump hole.

[JUSTION337]

What about using a fiberglass/aluminum heat sheath around the fuel line?

Such as one of these: http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

[toasted]

I already have a split open rubber fuel line wrapped around the metal fuel line where it is closest to the heat. I don't think it is doing anything.

[Jigs]

How would that help?
How do I do a return line on a carb and a fuel system with only about 6psi of pressure?

You can plumb in a return line right up next to the carburetor. Just put a T fitting in your fuel line and put some sort of reducer to limit the flow of the return fuel. This will help your issue because you will have constant fuel recirculating through your lines which will help you keep the fuel cooler. Right now it sounds like you have just a direct line to the carb which allows your fuel to move up the line slowly and create hot spots where it is boiling off resulting in vapor locking.

Does this make sense or would you like me to explain deeper? I just tried to sum it up here for you for some quick reading and to maybe spark an idea in your cranium.

[Jigs]

What size gas line are you running?

And also if your fuel pump is only putting out 6 psi I would recommend getting something bigger... The way I explained above should get you by if you use something like 1/4" fuel line for the return. If that drops your fuel pressure too much you will probably need to do it the proper way.

Get a bigger fuel pump and run an adjustable regulator with a return line on it. These are perfect because you can dial the higher pressure fuel pump using the regulator so that your carb is only getting 6 psi and the rest is getting pumped back to the tank via the return line you have on the regulator. Again this is the proper way because with constant circulating fuel you will keep the fuel temps down and not have to worry about vapor locking.

Another way I was just thinking of would be to jack up the pressure in your fuel lines. I have no idea if this would actually work but theoretically if you increase the pressure in your fuel lines you increase the boiling point of the gas inside the lines. Who knows if it would actually work like that but i guess its just some food for thought

[toasted]

I get what you are saying but that just sounds like a lot of crap to install that shouldn't be on a vehicle this simple.

6-8psi doesn't sound like much, but it doesn't need any more pressure than that. If I force more pressure through there the carb will be spewing fuel out of every seal it has.... lol

There are other ways to avoid vaporlock without haveing to go with a larger fuel pump and a return line. This truck was designed for a single line I just need to reroute my new fuel system like the old one I think. The original fuel system was all on the drivers side, opposite the exhaust, this new system is on the passenger side and that is the same side as the exhaust.

There is a lot of engine heat, but I could also be underestimating how hot that exhaust system is getting and this fuel could be nice and hot before it even gets into the engine bay. Then the pump pressurizes it a little, and the engine heats it up some more. Then it boils.