16v conversion kits???

[Eyedeas]

I have a 97 jetta 2.slow and I was wondering if their are any companies out there that sell everything needed to convert my 8v to a 16v.

If not can someone please list what would be involved in swapping 8 to 16 valves? I just want more flow for intake and exhaust and upgrading the valve number seems like it would really help.

Thanks for reading.

Peace

[Die Frau]

BBM

http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/p...Conversion_Kit

I think you just need to buy the head then.

[shawnz21]

I am building a 16v aba right now. this is a good reference:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1535079
Keep in mind, with stock aba pistons and the 16v head you will run about 8:1 comp. pretty low unless you are going to boost the F out or it. still a bit low, in my opinion, for boost too.

[dubswede]

yea, the bbm came to mind and for that money, i'd rather get a cam and used supercharger setup from someone.

be easier to install and probably easier to mantain.


even at $800 for the BASIC kit, you'd want higher compression if not boosting. that would come from upgrading pistons which seem like they're always at least $500.

[slowrd]

yea, the bbm came to mind and for that money, i'd rather get a cam and used supercharger setup from someone.

i'd agree.

neuspeed 8v superchargers can be had for sub $900. not sure if that includes beefed fueling system.

[flippinvw]

Sell 2.slow jetta. Buy VR6 Jetta. Done.

16V conversion would be so much work for so little gain. And this is coming from a 16v fan!

[tauntedmonster]

Why buy a high mileage copy of one of the most unreliable engines ever produced when you can spend a little money and have a refreshed 4cyl with similar if not better power?

I did a lot of research into doing an ABA16v, was going to P&P the head, buy some new pistons but I couldn't justify the cost. I was starting to think about leaving the pistons and compression, and going FI instead. Next thing I knew I was looking up prices on meth kits and comparing gt-series turbos, so i scrapped the whole plan.

Like I said, I got the "while you're in there" syndrome and couldn't justify spending the money.

[justrave]

Why buy a high mileage copy of one of the most unreliable engines ever produced when you can spend a little money and have a refreshed 4cyl with similar if not better power?

aba 16vs dont even come very close to a stock vr's horsepower.

[slowrd]

aba 16vs dont even come very close to a stock vr's horsepower.

i don't think he was refering that a aba 16v was...

but you are correct.

[Digital K]

aba 16vs dont even come very close to a stock vr's horsepower.

aba 16v's (ABF) is a highly under-rated motor. its 150crank hp w/ stock internals. they however have dynoed 140 many times. take that for what its worth....

you'll never see that power w/ CIS though.

[toasted]

All of Bahnbrenners stuff is always so expensive. I would just do the reasearch and gather the parts yourself. You could probably do the conversion for way less that BBM's price.

[flippinvw]

Why buy a high mileage copy of one of the most unreliable engines ever produced when you can spend a little money and have a refreshed 4cyl with similar if not better power?

Every VW motor is "unreliable". Who said he had to buy a high-milage car?

16v's are great but in a porky mk3 you want torque. It's not all about "power" unless you're on a racetrack. If the OP has driven a lightly modded mk3 VR and still wants a peaky 4-banger instead of tire-shredding torque, all the power to him/her.

My brother's corrado VR with mild cams, chip, l/w flywheel and intake dyno'd 168whp/168wtq. Good luck getting that out of a 16v, esp those torque numbers. You're better off with just about every other option, including a charger, turbo or whatever on the crossflow. NA 4cyl is a waste of time and money in a Mk3, even with carbs, again, JMO.

By the way, his stage 4 G60 dyno'd 183whp/180ishwtq. A tiny 8v.

You'll hear plenty of talk about the 16v's potential on this site (and on Vortex) but rarely real numbers. The VR is proven and you don't need a dyno chart to prove it. Just hop in and drive one, you'll know it's the right choice.

[tauntedmonster]

aba 16vs dont even come very close to a stock vr's horsepower.

Every VW motor is "unreliable". Who said he had to buy a high-milage car?

16v's are great but in a porky mk3 you want torque. It's not all about "power" unless you're on a racetrack. If the OP has driven a lightly modded mk3 VR and still wants a peaky 4-banger instead of tire-shredding torque, all the power to him/her.

My brother's corrado VR with mild cams, chip, l/w flywheel and intake dyno'd 168whp/168wtq. Good luck getting that out of a 16v, esp those torque numbers. You're better off with just about every other option, including a charger, turbo or whatever on the crossflow. NA 4cyl is a waste of time and money in a Mk3, even with carbs, again, JMO.

By the way, his stage 4 G60 dyno'd 183whp/180ishwtq. A tiny 8v.

You'll hear plenty of talk about the 16v's potential on this site (and on Vortex) but rarely real numbers. The VR is proven and you don't need a dyno chart to prove it. Just hop in and drive one, you'll know it's the right choice.

When saying the VR has been proven, you gotta remember that the VW 4cyl has been around for decades, and has gone essentially unchanged with the exception of the switch to hydraulic lifters etc. TT/The Raceshop has been building 8/16v's since the 70's

Have you ever seen actual flow bench numbers between heads? The 12v VR is restrictive, and poorly designed, you can't deny that. The 16v head was one of the best VW ever designed.

VW 8V EARLY CASTING Stock valve size
Stock: Ported:
INT. 126cfm @ .450" valve lift INT. 152cfm @ .450" valve lift
EXH. 95cfm @ .450" valve lift EXH. 124cfm @ .450" valve lift

VW 8V CROSS FLOW Stock valve size
Stock: Ported:
INT. 131cfm @ .450" valve lift INT. 156cfm @.450" valve lift
EXH. 101cfm @ .450" valve lift EXH. 130cfm @ .450" valve lift

VW 16V 2.0L Stock valve size
Stock: Ported:
INT. 184cfm @ .400" valve lift INT. 218cfm @ .400" valve lift
EXH. 142cfm @ .400" valve lift EXH. 168cfm @ .400" valve lift

VW VR6 12V Stock valve size
Stock: Ported:
INT. 148cfm @ .450" valve lift INT. 176cfm @ .450" valve lift
EXH. 137cfm @ .450" valve lift EXH. 159cfm @ .450" valve lift

The 16v head flows as well stock as the 12v does ported, and with .050" less valve lift to boot.

I'm not going to spend all night looking for dyno charts, but here's one, an aba16v with a lysholm. Stock bottom end, stock head.

BMGFifty
1996 GTi 2.0L 16V BBM S/C'd
97,xxx miles on the chassis
1500 miles on the engine
Dyno: Dynojet
ABA ODBI 2.0 block
Forged Pistons ~ 8.5:1 C/R
Stock 2.0l 16v head, cams and Intake/exhaust manifolds
BBM Supercharger Kit
55mm pulley
FMIC
Factory Management Tuned By Jeff Atwood (C2)
227whp - 217ft/lbs




I had a long post typed out but the long and short of it is this: for a fun punchy motor, a 16v is a great choice. Of course I've seen the schimmel, o34 etc big turbo VR builds with 10,000whp, but back here on earth not everyone is trying to go for max dyno numbers. For a realistic daily driver I'd take a 2.0 16v over a VR any day.

My $.10

[Digital K]

cant wait to have my unproven weak sauce 16vT

That said I will be the first to point out it is very expensive to have a 16v make good power naturally aspirated. I've been down that road, had a lot of fun, and would likely not do it again in my own car.

[flippinvw]

taunted: You're preaching to the choir. I love 16v's, I've owned many and a nicely modded one (ported cams 50mm etc) IS my daily. But, in a mk3 I think the VR is a better choice. Also note that a crossflow with that same blower would make very similar #s. My point is that swapping to a 16v gets you little compared to spending the same $$ on a blower or a VR.