A4 UltraMeow

[JTapper]

Takes two hands and sometimes two tries to get it right.

[Jigs]

Takes two hands and sometimes two tries to get it right.

You can say that again! I took the night off and after reading 3 other diys I am confident in getting it right the second time

forgot the whole OEM tension and roller. Get a IE manual tension kit and never have to replace the $100 tension again.

http://www.intengineering.com/integr...ner-kit-w-pump

I saw that on a link on Audizine and it seems to interest me! Is there any reason I shouldnt cancel my order to ECS and order this!?!? I may just call up ECS since they are not even going to ship my order for like a week

Does anyone on here actually have any experience using that manual tensioner?

I remember spending a bunch of time trying to figure that thing out. I think this is the PDF that explained it to me
http://www.mediafire.com/?7u3czx58au5xp1h
see page 145(start earlier but this specifically starts here for the tensioner)

I used an 8mm allen wrench or drill bit, I think it was a 5/16" drill bit.
I might have T10008 if you need it.

Holy Bananas! Thank you for that link!!!

[Jigs]

Just canceled my ECS order since they were jerking me around and not going to ship for like a week. Ordered up the manual tensioner kit from IE!

[Jigs]

Got the manual tensioner in and everything else all bolted up, put in new CCT gaskets, VC gasket, and filled it up with some distilled water. I fired her up and she is purring nicely now; I still need to drain out the water and flush the system out good and get some fresh g12 in there and put the front bumper back on. I had noticed that when I took the front bumper off the bolts that hold the front fenders to the headlight brackets so I went ahead and ordered those today.

When I had it running I noticed that a little coolant was leaking out of the bleeder screw on the upper metal coolant line so i went ahead and took the bolt off. It didnt even look like the right bolt for the hole so I had picked up a new screw for that. The new screw is a plastic one with an O-Ring and the old one is a metal one with a messed up crush washer. I dont know if the PO had messed up the threads on the hard coolant pipe so I went ahead and ordered a new one of those too just incase the plastic screw doesnt fix it.

[Jigs]

Ok so I am in the process of flushing out all of the coolant and I think I may have some sort of issue. I have been draining the coolant through the sensor on the lower radiator hose and I every time I drain the coolant it is cold.. If he T-Stat is opening up shouldn't the coolant be warm???

I am flushing the coolant right now and I could use some advise asap.

[Jigs]

NVM got it figured out. I wasnt letting the car idle long enough. I busted out my vag com and have been watching the measuring blocks to make sure that she is warming up completely and cycling the t stat a few times!

Measuring blocks 130-137
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/130-137.html

[spentitall]

You seem to know your shit very well by now! hah
Once you've got that buttoned up I might just drop my mk1 TT off with you to fix haha

[Jigs]

Haha, I dont know about that.. A lot of googling helps!

[JTapper]

You seem to know your shit very well by now! hah
Once you've got that buttoned up I might just drop my mk1 TT off with you to fix haha

If it's anything like doing a timing service on a 1.8T beetle, no thanks.

NO ROOM TO WORK.

[Crispy222]

If it's anything like doing a timing service on a 1.8T beetle, no thanks.

NO ROOM TO WORK.

Its a little better on the room. You can leave the headlights in. But its still a bastard to take the motor mount off and get the belt on.

Manual tensioner all the way.

[JFettig]

Longitudinal cars rock. I just yank the whole front end for a thorough inspection of all the seals and whatnot on front.
http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/A4/tn_IMAG0171.jpg

I've done enough transverse TDI belts to not want to do any more for a while.

[spentitall]

I know the transverse is going to suck, but like i told my roommate, at least i didnt buy a beetle.

[Jigs]

So my fuel Gauge issue is back. I went to plug my vagcom in and I ripped the head off. A new one should be here today so I will have tocheck for some soft codes. Does anyone know what channel the fuel sensors are part of?

Edit: I just found these links: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...l-sending-unit
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-acting-stupid

Looks like a lot of people have the same issue as me after replacing the fuel pump.. I may have to try this and see if it fixes it!

[Jigs]

I got my new vagina com cable yesterday and ran some codes...

(Dropping this link to use later for re-calibrating fuel senders: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...8EC/8ED/8HE%29 )

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76



Address 17 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 920 950 P
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D42
Coding: 01201
Shop #:

1 Fault Found:
00771 - Fuel Level Sensor (G)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Address 46 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
Component: Komfortgerát T7B 1512
Coding: 11848
Shop #:
3 Faults Found:
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
00955 - Key 1
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01562 - Right Rear Door
59-10 - Can't Unlock - Intermittent

Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 8E0 035 195 H
Component: symphony II PM6 0460
Coding: 01200
Shop #:
2 Faults Found:
01317 - Control Module in Instrument Cluster (J285)
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
00466 - Control Module for Steering Column Electronics (J527)
49-00 - No Communications

End -------------------------------------------------------