I see what you did, there
Today I checked on a weird whine at middle RPM's and that squeaking. Pulled out the alternator and I think the water pump pulley is warped and possibly the bearing is shot from getting too tight of a belt. The thing goes weeek weeek weeeek when I turn it. Going to pick up a longer belt tomorrow and will order a pulley asap. Also, the water pump pulley appears to be offset a bit to the center of the car, so that it is 1 or 2mm out of alignment. I'll see if I can shim out the new pulley to get it in line.
Also put in the 120mph cluster I got from Shane. Went in fine but the car is acting like the turn signal fuse blew. I don't have the time or light to look for that now (work at 5am) so I'll check later tomorrow. Also, the battery warning light is on. Going to drive it around the block and make sure the voltage doesn't drop. It would suck to miss the third day at my new job.
At some point I'll have to test the cold start injector too, but I'm putting that off because I HATE troubleshooting.
Turn signals inexplicably work. Low oil light/buzzer works... oy. Put oil in. Voltage looks stable and the batt light went off.
Last edited by Sven7; 07-19-2012 at 10:11 PM.
Glad the cluster worked out for you. Good luck with the rest.
Originally Posted by Sven7
I started driving to work this morning and the check oil light came on again. I had to drive back and drive my mom's car. Turns out I put too much oil in last night. This afternoon, drained the extra oil off. Took it for the drive. Check oil light came on at the exact same spot as this morning. Something's fucked up.
Told my mom about it and my parents are going to cover a visit to Auto Edge. I really don't have the time, patience or skills to go diagnose and fix all this crap and I know Auto Edge will do a good job. Car's going in on the 30th. This is my long-term plan, that when I get some stable income I don't want to do a lot of wrenching myself. It's frustrating and I'd rather work on other things and just enjoy my car.
If anyone has an idea how to make that oil light go away let me know, otherwise I'll read up in the manual.
But really, use a Mann filter, get some 20w50 (I think is what it likes) oil...Dino oil has been said to work best, and then put some STP oil thickener in it.
I had a Mann filter on mine forever and there wasnt a single light. I just did a change and went to a Mobile1 filter, and I get the light all the time now. I just ignore it. It have pressure, its working fine. Only be alarmed if it starts buzzing at you.
This is my experience, please take it as you will, I am not responsible for any damage incurred to your car, I am only sharing my experiences.
"...Camouflage is indeed my favorite color..." - Travis
It's not just a light... it's the light and BBBBZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ as if the thing has no oil at all. Hard to ignore.
I use Valvoline Max Life 10W30 (?) with a Wix filter right now and had absolutely no issues until last night with the new cluster. Could it be some sort of electrical issue in the new cluster?
Thanks for the help though.
Check to make sure the oil sensors are connected on the head and oil filter flange. They get bumped / aren't seated tight and the wires break. It happened on my old 8v.
Are you sure that you have good oil pressure??
Originally Posted by bowls
From some info I have found searching google it sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere. The oil buzzer circuit goes from the clocks to the sender either under the distributor or on the oil filter housing. I would look for loose or connections.
Also found this
IDK if any of this will help you but i guess hopefully it sparks an ideaDisconnect the blue/black wire from the white, high pressure switch on the oil filter flange and rev the engine over 2000 rpm. After approximately a two second delay the light and warning beeper should come on and remain on no matter what rpm the engine is running until the blue/black wire is grounded.
[If it doesn't go off when grounded the wire or connectors are faulty between the sender and clocks] .
Turn off engine . Now
Re-connect to the 'new' [you did say you have replaced the sender] pressure sender start engine it should go off and work normally .
Originally Posted by bowls
Took it for a test drive. Does the same shit. Figured out it's because I go over 2200rpm around a fun rally corner on my street. If I keep it under 2200rpm it stays happy.
Looked at the pressure sensor test in the Bentley. It says to ground the wire on the engine and turn on the ignition. If the warning light turns on the sensor is faulty. The warning light blinked on, then quickly off. Does that count as on? lol fuck.
This car is not coming to the show- it will be parked this week and Auto Edge will have to fix it.
Insert photo from Wednesday to remind me why I love her.
Zephyr Go Bye-Bye by Tyler Linner, on Flickr
Last edited by Sven7; 07-21-2012 at 12:56 PM.