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  1. #46
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    Oct 2010
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    Diesel Westy & 2 B5 A4's

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    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  2. #47
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    Diesel Westy & 2 B5 A4's

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    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  3. #48
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    This is all finished now... didnt have time to take finished pics though.

    Thats it for now!
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  4. #49
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    Forgot to mention next steps...

    The bellows and shift linkage parts will be installed this week. The entire parts package should be delivered by Tuesday this week. Once those parts are installed, I will move on to eliminating the rust on the body. I have three body panels coming in this shipment. I plan on completing this project in this order... please tell me if I am missing steps or doing something wrong because this is my first time doing bodywork like this!

    1. Sand the rusted area.
    2. Use a wire pad on the grinder and apply it to the rusted area untill down to bare metal.
    3. break off all loose rust. Grind and sand untill as clean as its gonna get.
    4. Wipe the area down
    5. Apply spray on Rust eliminator to the given area.
    6. Position the new body panel piece into place
    7. Rivet the body panel to the existing body of the westy, covering the corrected area
    8. Once the body panel is riveted on, is there a sealant I can use to eliminate the edge it will leave?
    9. Sand down, prep and re-paint the entire vanagon.

    I have three body panels coming... both rear wheel fenders and the lower body panel on the drivers side. Im not sure what to do with the other rust spots.. There is a rust hole on the tailgate, corner of a rear window and some other surface rust spots... FOr the surface spots, I'll grind em down, spray with the rust eliminator and prime... but for the other holes that I dont have body panels coming for... what do i use to fill those holes after grinding them down, before painting??

    Thanks fellas!
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Minneapolis
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    E39/E91/LRDII

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    That does not at all sound like the correct way to replace a body panel. Typically you cut out the old replace with new. Riveting a new panel over an old rusted one would not be the "correct" way to do it. I'm sure you could do it that way, just like you could duct tape over the rust, or load a bunch of Bondo over the rust, but that isn't that way I would get it done.

    If you do go ahead with your plan, between steps 5 and 6 you will want to apply an epoxy primer, or some sort of paint or primer product that is going to seal the metal from oxygen and moisture. Applying a new panel over bare metal, even after using a rust eliminator will just lead to more rust. In fact, I think the whole general plan you outlined will lead to more rust. You really should completely cut away any rusted metal, not just grind and sand it. I suppose you could still use rivets (*wince*) to adhere the new panel, but at least get rid of the cancer by cutting back to clean metal before putting your patch over the area.

  6. #51
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    So, cut out the rusted area... then put the patch over the cut out spot, rivet it on and go from there?

    I'll have to see how big the patches are to do this method. There has to be enough patch to cover the area I cut out!!

    What tool does one use to cut out pieces of a car body?

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  7. #52
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    E39/E91/LRDII

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    Either a nibbler, or an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. Naturally you don't want to cut anything larger than the patch, but if the rust extends beyond the patch you're going to have an incomplete repair anyway. I'd still stay away from using rivets as the primary way to hold your patch on, because it is going to look like shit. If you really want to avoid welding, at least use some sort of automotive panel bonding adhesive like 3M 8116, or similar.

    You can cut your hole slightly smaller than the replacement panel (or if you are working with a complete panel you can drill out all of the spot welds). This will create a surface you can essentially make into a flange and bond your new metal to. I helped replace a few panels like this, but it has been about 8-10 years. I believe I used Lord Fusor (http://www.lord.com/products-and-sol...al-bonding.xml), but there are similar products from 3M, Wurth, Evercoat, etc. On one of the repairs we had to use a few rivets just to hold the piece in place long enough for the glue to cure (we didn't have any way to clamp the seam). We then removed the rivets, filled the holes, used a small amount of filler plus a skim coat to hide/flatten out the seam, then sent it to the painter.

    That type of panel bonding adhesive acts as a good seam sealer, you don't have to dick with welding thin sheet metal, and in the end (as long as you prep correctly) it can create a seam that is stronger than a welded seam.

    Do you have a link to the replacement panels that you bought?

  8. #53
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    Parts finally delivered today. Mechanical parts will go in first, then this weekend I'll start working on the rust repair and maybe paint.
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  9. #54
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    Shift linkage parts have been installed... She's running smoothly now!! blast to drive. Also installed the new grill parts... No more broken faded grill! pics of updates to come..

    Unpacked the new body panels for the main rust spots. Don't have time to work on them this weekend, but the panel project should be able to be finished by Friday next week. Gonna cut out old, weld on new, prep for paint...

    I'm on the hunt for a decent condition tailgate if anyone knows someone or whatever... Or if u see one for sale, please let me know!! I'd rather replace the tailgate with another than try to tackle the rust on mine.

    I found a shift knob.. Mahogany/oak layered combo... It's an old 3wood from the ol' days!! gonna mount it when I have some time. Still on the lookout for a wood steering wheel.

    That's the plate for now. So, planned from here:

    Fix main rust spots
    Prep for paint
    Repaint the entire exterior
    Refinish and paint the stocker wheels... White or black?
    Lowering springs and new tires
    Shift knob and steering wheel
    Buy and install new bumpers
    Maybe try to track down a new windshield. Mine is cracked.
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Forest Lake
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    997
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    Cummins

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    Can I ask why keep the stock wheels?
    It's pretty easy to modify any Audi wheel to fit these vans. Which can open up your tire options considerably.
    Some day I'm going to build an airplane/Then I'm going to die in a plane crash
    The motorcycle is a work of art, a testament to the corner gods, and as with all religious endevours, requires a bit of ceremony and respect.

  11. #56
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    I might get aftermarket wheels at some point... For now the reason is affordability. I'd rather put the money into the body and mechanical needs for now until my BMW sells.
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  12. #57
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    Haven't posted here in a while. Been working on the rust and getting the replacement panels on. Pics soon.. Otherwise you'll see it at EW.

    Can someone help me install lowering springs? the shop here says it will take them 6 hours at $80/hour... Lmk. Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  13. #58
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    Picked off some parts from a Vanagon in a junk yard today. $5 for all. Sweet. Got a steering wheel face cover, side vent piece, door card map holder, window handle, some front visor parts, and some other odds and ends. Reserved the tailgate door too. It has a dent in it that I think I can work out. Mine has rust that's beyond my experience to repair... She's coming along!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

  14. #59
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    Apr 2009
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    Warren, MI
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    50mpg double wishbone

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    This thread needs pics.

    Also, for a camper van, don't do white wheels. They'll just get filthy. I'd go with black steelies and chrome caps, or just silver wheels.

    Maybe I missed it, but will you be painting the van mustard yellow or a lame color?
    Quote Originally Posted by sprstu View Post
    and mesmerizing. Ive never considered how much those balls move about until now.

  15. #60
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    [QUOTE=Sven7;735545]This thread needs pics.[QUOTE]

    The new body panels the day they arrived... still in box


    unwrapping and presentation.



    Cruising down the highway at 60ish with plenty of power to go faster.


    Some of the parts I mentioned that i picked off the one vanagon at the junk yard...


    The vanagon at the junk yard that I got the tail-gate off of. Its now in my garage.




    And some of the progress removing the cancer... bottom panel is now spot welded on and in place.. more pics to come!!


    also began working on the rust around the camper outlets...
    Quote Originally Posted by Topher View Post
    You buy weird cars.

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