may never end, 81 caddy

[sprstu]

Long story short:
Purchased off of ebay for $1142
drove home from new mexico only having 3rd gear easily found, no front suspension to speak of and about 50% compression.
Fixed shifting, struts and springs, general clean-up and maintenance
Injector pump seals leaking like a sieve
Project- new rings, bearings, head gasket and t-belt, IP re-seal, turbo, FMIC, 2.25 exhaust, stripped interior, cleaned up engine bay and after seeing Kris' caddy a 3inch drop all around.
onto the pics
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2357/2107420662_6388debe53.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2318/2107420644_f16838a7bb.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2175/2107420656_c64d5a375a.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2299/2107399896_b7f55e22dd.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2275/2107420646_eb4861b222.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2170/2107399890_5bf1278c94.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2183/2107399870_cb09fd1cf5.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2146/2106659497_ff4ecc2659.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2114/2134237928_148b324d7a.jpg?v=0

[OptimusGlen]

wow, clean!

[vweezly]

I've seen this in person and it so dope. Not even the arches have rust under them. Such a great start for a project car Stuart. I will be helping as much as I can. Since you helped me with mine.

[John2.0T]

Nice! That is a VERY clean example and will definitely make an excellent project!

[aaronmjr]

Yes! Hopefully my pm today inspired you to start the thread, haha. VERY clean looking Caddy. It will be fun to see this come together :beer:

[Die Frau]

Hey, suspension and motors are easy.... No rust is HUGE!

[Digital K]

get to work! more updates! ;)

[Philosomatika]

Cabby can has 3inch turboback and Holset plz?

[sprstu]

and this is a table full of most of my new parts. missing is clutch, CV boots and piping
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3181/2433632293_8b05662f54.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2172/2433632303_927c52763f.jpg?v=0

sorry they are so blurry. i am the sux at pics

[EWAustin]

you work on your car in a kitchen?

[dubswede]

i too was wondering about the super clean, restaurant kitchen look of the garage.

what manifolds are those? td?

[EWAustin]

what manifolds are those? td?

Yes.
Note, no place for a throttle body.

[sprstu]

the exhaust manifold is from a 1.9tdi and the intake is from a 1.6td. I am building a 1.6td.

I own a catering company and my garage is connected to my catering kitchen, which is nice because I have tons of clean space to work on nice things and its a great place to make beer.

[sprstu]

tonight the work continues. Completly put the engine back together, sans timing belt, reattach the tany and put the engine back in the truck, sort out where to mount inter cooler and figure out how to mount the master cylinder without the brake booster. maybe more if we get this shit done. Anyone is welcome to join (I have food and beer), hit me via pm or you can call me at: six five one three two four two two zero two

[sprstu]

mother fucking balls. there is no way I can get this shit done. I have been sitting on the worng fucking head gasket for almost 6 months. I never thought to really check it out because that would have involved taking it out of its protective plastic and I knew that I wasnt going to use it for 6 months so I wanted to protect it. Now I have to send this back, assuming eMiata will even take it back and buy a fucking new one that will take2 weeks to get here. I cant fucking win.

pic proof.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2440305356_d1770415c1.jpg?v=0

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2121/2440305350_422b941f70.jpg?v=0


I have no idea what this fits on, its not a 1.6 diesel and its not the a 1.6 (?) gasser I got from kris, so who knows what it could be. 1.5d, 1.9d, 1.7 gas, I have no idea. anyone recognize it so maybe I can salvage $10 out of a resale when eMiata doesnt accept the return?

[aaronmjr]

I don't know what head gasket that is, but the quench area on your pistons looks like a set of nuts.

Hope that helps :beer:

[20V'er]

I just looked up headgaskets for 84 Jetta TD and they list 12 different diesel headgaskets.

In looking at the picture I think you have a 1 notch block and a 2 notch headgasket.

I suppose the old one got tossed? Metric Auto Parts in St. Paul probably has the right one in stock so you could be wrenching this weekend.

[aaronmjr]

I just looked up headgaskets for 84 Jetta TD and they list 12 different diesel headgaskets.

In looking at the picture I think you have a 1 notch block and a 2 notch headgasket.

I suppose the old one got tossed? Metric Auto Parts in St. Paul probably has the right one in stock so you could be wrenching this weekend.

thats a good recommendation, metric has had lots of random parts in stock for my M3 in the past that the dealership hasn't. Definitely worth a call.

[sprstu]

the old HG got tossed, because why on earth would I need to keep it :headsmash:

I went back to the site I bought it from, volkswaparts.com and from the pictures he has on there it looks to be the MK2 1.6d HG and i need the MK1. Ill call metric today and see what they have for pricing.

[somepunk22]

How much boost are you going to run? I'm using a metal HG from a 1.9IDI on my 1.6TD. You just need to seal around the water port.

[hamradio]

get a metal one from an aaz; it'll work, wont it?

[hamradio]

Also, I'd be weary of volkswaparts.com...they guy seems like a decent guy, but it seems like everything he sells are chinese knockoffs, IIRC.

[sprstu]

Somepunk, what did you use to seal around the water port? I was thinking if I had to replace what i have I might as well get an all metal one from an aaz.
Im looking to run around 15psi, i dont want to over boost my NA block and iM not trying to build a racer here, just something a little more daily drivable.

yeah, volkswaparts is just a bunch of cheap chinese shit, and when youre on a stupid budget it works but in the end just fucks you. I want to do better at waiting another 2 weeks or whatever and just buy a nicer REAL part instead of settling for shit.

[somepunk22]

I used 2 layers of oil pan gasket and some RTV. Others have used rubber. I bought my gasket, pistons, and a few other parts from myke_w on the GTD forum. Check out this thread:
http://vwdiesel.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=10283&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

[hamradio]

Hmmm, when I blow out my fiber one, I'll buy a metal one. I'm regretting not doing it. I just put a new fiber one in. I only want to run 10-12, so that I don't ruin my gasket right away.

[sprstu]

to be honest, i think im just going to get the HG for my engine, I dont really want to add more variables than I am already. A metal one sounds good and maybe I will do some searching on dieselnet myself, but for its late...

[sprstu]

Ask and Kerma TDi answers-
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/nationpicture.php?do=resize&pid=22979

http://www.icixsound.com/vb/nationpicture.php?do=resize&pid=22981

I wanted to spend the extra $125 and have the 'wastegate isolator' put on, but i just didnt have the money at purchase time. In the future, as my welding skill points increase, ill make my own stuff but for now this unit will do just fine.

ill have more pics soon, once my flkr stops being a bitch

[somepunk22]

Vnt?

[sprstu]

pics of shit mounted
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2486390635_ef12d671ff.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3181/2486390595_06a052b51f.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2297/2486390593_19b61f07fa.jpg?v=0

the start of my reseal job
cold start lever reseal
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2244/2486298169_9253be877c.jpg?v=0
opened up
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3126/2486371807_ab8c8ec0d7.jpg?v=0

new ring
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2168/2486371809_bb8a345d6d.jpg?v=0

front main seal
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/2486371817_dc0838dd53.jpg?v=0

the seal, i didnt tear the rubber (right) piece but I did ruin the metal ring it was in (left) and was sacred to death that I needed it once it was out because the new ring was all rubber, turns out I was wrong and it all worked out just fine.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2365/2486371821_3f16e49fd3.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2188/2486371829_c093f52107.jpg?v=0

I will be getting the oil lines done up today at Pirtek and will be making a new oil drain flange for the oil out on the turbo as well as welding on a drain bung on the oil pan. After that, its just a matter of cutting and welding the exhaust and inter cooler piping. running in 10days is my goal.

Not vnt, this is the model just before the vnt was used.

[hamradio]

Oh, it is on! My diesel will run before your's! :biggrin:

Looks good, mang.

Shit, I just forgot, mine won't be running before your's. I don't have a clue what I'm going to do for oil feed and return; I can't afford AN fittings. If I had oil lines, I could rev it up this weekend. :)

[somepunk22]

Is that downpipe made for a MK1? Looks like it would hit the firewall.

[sprstu]

its made for a mk3 tdi jetta, and that was the first thing I though about. Im pretty sure Ill have to cut it a bit after the bend to make it work, but im cutting and welding the whole exhaust anyway so its not that big of a deal I hope.

[sprstu]

progress for the sake of progress?

It really feels like I have gone absolutly nowhere in the last few weeks with all this. I have just been collecting parts to get it all done, but the engine is still not in and the timing tools have not arrived so the t-belt isnt on either. There is no exhaust built and nothing has been done about the intercooler yet.
the good news is that I have a brand new all aluminum radiator on its way as well as some koni yellows and carrera coils and sleeves :beer:
Now I have to make the drop plates for the rear and get it all put together. I want to be done for dubs in the valley at least. I hope its done before july, if not it may truly never end.

dirtiest carpet ever?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3059/2574834124_3da24154cc.jpg?v=0

this is the crap that came out of the driverside and off the back wall. I had already taken all the sound deadening and glue from the pass side.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3281/2574834132_7c9a303832.jpg?v=0

now that all the big stuff is out I can start to really clean
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3056/2574834138_4e3eab10fb.jpg?v=0

tools
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3258/2574834148_6e105c9f99.jpg?v=0http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3125/2574851590_49a49a9665.jpg?v=0

Scrub Scrub Scurb
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2574834150_3dfd8c39a2.jpg?v=0http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3134/2574834156_8fc51f602b.jpg?v=0

DONE FTW
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/2574851602_148cb2658b.jpg?v=0

Also, this is the NON AC alt bracket for the MK1 1.6d, if anyone cares. These fuckers are really really hard to track down.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2574851604_4e0bb49b6b.jpg?v=0

[Wireclimer]

IS the all aluminum rad the one im furninshing or is this sorced from elsewhere?

Also, Damn. Thats clean.

[sprstu]

yeah, its the GTX one. its still in transit.

[sprstu]

So attempting to put the IP back on the engine I come across some brackets that were labeled IP but I have no idea where they go.

Mystery brackets
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2588235022_d5e0858cd9.jpg?v=0

back of IP
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/2588235054_be79033d0e.jpg?v=0

[Rhetoric]

The piece on the left mounts to the top right mounting bolt of the injection pump (the bolt that mounts it to the bracket). I couldn't find the piece on the right anywhere, even on my '81 diesel. Here's a pic that might further help you:

http://www.d.umn.edu/~busc0122/ip.jpg

[sprstu]

holy sweet man, thank you so much. that helps out a ton.

[somepunk22]

The piece on the right mounts the timing belt cover. Mounts near the center of the IP bracket. I have my cover off if you need pics.

[sprstu]

pics would be awesome if you have them.

[somepunk22]

Both brackets.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3130/2589015736_1a7f5dbca0.jpg

[hamradio]

I see your problem is solved. I was wondering what they were for, too. :beer: I thought you were wondering about some other stuff.

[somepunk22]

And now I know where that heatshield went to. :bangin:

[Wireclimer]

Sprstu may be to busy to post ATM but I assure you he is working hard on his VW and is at this very moment attempting to swap out new gaskets in his IP and do a partal rebuild on it, Very exciting.

[Digital K]

i certainly hope he is working hard!

[sprstu]

if you consider drinking sweet, sweet Madison made beer and talking to my neighbors 'working hard' then yes, I am hard at work.

But really, thank you for the pics, that is exactly what i was looking for and appreciate it very much.


somepunk22- i too see where that heatsheild went. I have lost many little bits inside the engine bay of this truck, there are just so many little places for them all to hide.

[sprstu]

setback setbacks setback.

future reference, when working on a diesel 1.6 the conversion from ac to non-ac does not include ANY 1.6 gas cars parts. that is all.

[hamradio]

How far out from running is it?

[sprstu]

well, once I get my pulleys sorted out (read: tonight) I will be able to get the engine and trans back in the car, then on sunday I will have fabbed the parts I need for the oil drian, then its just a matter of cutting and welding some exhaust and intercooler pipes, then mounting the intercooler. done. really, if I was any good with mechanical stuff it would be done on like monday night next week. if anybody wants to come by and lend a hand next week with the cutting/mocking up exhaust stuff like monday that would be super sweet. I will pay for some fuel costs as well, with cash and or beer and food or cash beer and food, or hugs and high fives. whatever you prefer.

[sprstu]

engine and trans going in tonight....

[hamradio]

w00t!

[Digital K]

and then?

[Hart]

no and then!

[sprstu]

What i really wanted to do was have this done and just show up to the caravan spot for DIV but thats not what happened. I would have tried to rush the whole project and it wouldnt have turned out as nice and I would have been unhappy. So instead Im going to forgo the DIV trip and get my truck into the best shape I can right now and have a better vehicle to drive. here are some pics from the last few days.

every job starts and ends with a good beer
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3097/2632101578_e358d62240.jpg?v=0

"new" non-power assisted master cylinder
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2121/2632101588_e511210558.jpg?v=0

Logan "wireclimer" makes some good fucking brakeline curlys
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3156/2632101596_446f2c01b6.jpg?v=0

new MC pushrod on the left, see the difference?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3273/2632101600_f19fd0b561.jpg?v=0


gehtto mounted but working
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3012/2632101608_1fb7cb7464.jpg?v=0


oilpan plus fitting
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3122/2632101614_d128779850.jpg?v=0


oil fitting for turbo oil drain
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/2632167194_9069bcb3b3.jpg?v=0


jack+wood+controlarm mounts= great success
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3142/2632167204_7476351ef8.jpg?v=0


easy clearence
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3063/2632167200_d9bdc85f57.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3282/2632167214_25e1c8f444.jpg?v=0

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3112/2632167222_eac1e215a5.jpg?v=0


fuck this thing
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2355/2632167238_37227663c1.jpg?v=0

[Digital K]

what thing?

[sprstu]

the pass side engine mount. fuck that thing.

[Digital K]

its not that bad :P engine goes in easier from the bottom.

[vweezly]

When you test out those non powered brakes... I want to know how they ride... cause I will switch :)

[sprstu]

engine did go in from the bottom, thats why it was on the furniture dolly in the middle pic. we took it out from the top and it was really hard and after trying to get joels 16V in from the top on his car I figured that there had to be ann easier way. The bottom was really easy just we couldnt get that one fucking mount to line up correclty. Finally we jammed a screwdriver in through the front to get the holes lined up and that allowed us to shove the bolt through. T

joel- I wont have to tell you how they ride, you can drive it and see for yourself. (soon)

[hamradio]

Mine went in super easy from the bottom; I lifted it by the front bumper with a tractor, pushed it in via furniture dolly, did some raising/lowering and some pry bar action to get it aligned, and dropped the car back down.

Good work. :beer:

[thull]

I think I was at a wedding catered by you - I found a timing chain in my spaghetti

[sprstu]

were you actually at a wedding that I catered?
in the last 6 months I have done 4 weddings; fischer, holland, steigler and prokosch. any of those?

[vweezly]

joel- I wont have to tell you how they ride, you can drive it and see for yourself. (soon)

AWESOME!

Can't wait.

[Wireclimer]

Hey stu didn't know you put up some pics, Nice. Yah this thing is sweet and almost done, but im not going to jinx it by saying it will be done by, some day or something like that. But I cant help but feeling a little smug with how nice its turning out.

[sprstu]

updates:

Intercooler piping done (mostly) with the mazda 323gtx OEM intercooler. I wanted to put in the slightly larger mazda 626/ford probe Gt intercooler but with how the alt mounts now thanks to the AC delete I had to use this one. The flow charts say that the probe/626 intercooler is only a 15% increase in performance but thats on a gas car at 170HP where I'm diesel and will be lucky to see 80HP. Im not worried about using this smaller one.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/2647345536_5348ba0f7d.jpg?v=0

How to pimo youre glowplugs, let me show it to you.
Start by replacing the factory copper bar with individual wires
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3006/2647345546_492de2f4db.jpg?v=0

next, mount new relay and fuses
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3187/2647345566_04ae749d65.jpg?v=0

run on/off switch to dash
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3102/2647345556_237b45849b.jpg?v=0

win. (a more detailed list will be in tech soon)

[hamradio]

Your car almost gives me motivation to work on my own. Keep up the good work. :beer:

[Digital K]

so you control the glow plug relay yourself?

[hamradio]

I think so, or maybe it's wired straight to the glowplugs?

I saw a DIY very similar to this a while back on the diesel forum.

[Rhetoric]

Looks like complete glow plug control to me. Aside from that, good thick wires intead of the copper strip, and no shit-tastic 50A fuse blow-outs that prevent glow plug operation all together.

Pimp Your Glowplugs (http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28)

Cool stuff, Stu! I'll put that mod on my list of things to do...

[hamradio]

yeah, I carry a couple spare 50a fuses in my glove box. The stock glowplug wiring is hideous, IMO. I redid mine, but kept it on that rail style...no individual wires.

Your install looks very nicely done, I like it. :beer:

[sprstu]

Yes, I removed all the factory wiring and replaced it with new/better stuff. I do have to control the system manually however, there is no auto-off but for the security of knowing that it works and works well I can handle it. We wired in the light from the dash to the system as well so its on when the plugs are on but for some reason it doesnt work correctly. It only works when its grounded outside of the ground on the power block so we dont know whats up with that yet.

Anyway: sorry its soooo dark, my garage door opens up and covers the only light in the room and we had to have the door way open to let all the smoke out. better vids later

9MSSHn8qFbM

the exhaust isnt finished and the EGR hole is only covered with a plate and held in place with a c-clamp so it leaks like a mothers teet.
It wont start on its own, ether is required and then it runs poorly and eventually dies so we're thinking that we have mistimed the pump.
That isnt a bird the flew into the garage either, is this my KKKK03 spooling up :)
One more day and it will be running for realz, the shitty thing is that we need to modify the shifter linkage because the downpipe interferes when going into second and fourth. tomorrow will be another big day and im thinking that we will have it both running and at driving if only in 1st and 3rd.

[Wireclimer]

:worthy:

Yah we pimped it so hard it even has an extra "K" on the turbo.

[sprstu]

Fuck.

[aaronmjr]

uh oh. what happened?

[hamradio]

it is tough to put words to how you feel when you see that, isn't it? I went friggin' crazy.

[sprstu]

It may not be a big deal, it may be totally normal, all i know this that my turbo is bleeding into the exhaust. There was a shit ton of oil in the downpipe and through the system. We took the turbo and manifold off to make sure that it wasnt coming from the cylinders, it is deffenatly coming from the turbo.
I dont know if its normal for an older turbo to leak a bit of oil after it gets put back into commision after sitting for 6+ months or if the turbo needs to be resealed. There is a little back and forth play with the blades, nothing much so little that when we played with it months before we didnt think anything of it. We thought that maybe because there was no oil to 'float' the bearings that it could have a little play back and forth. There isnt much or any up and down play and there are no markings on the insides of either housing so I know the blades are hitting the walls or anything. Could be nothing but its probably something.
The turbo comes off. It needs to be looked at/taken apart before I put it on with any sort of trust.
So for now Im looking for some NA exhaust so I can run this beast for a while.

[hamradio]

My VNT poured out the exhaust like crazy, I said screw it, tore it off, and am now trading the vnt/manifold for a 1.6td exhaust manifold and a set of good 1.6td injectors.

I don't think the turbo would stop leaking; IIRC, it's a carbon seal.

[sprstu]

video of it running before the tear down. The idle was a bit high, my fault, I tried to mod the govenor and screwed it up pretty bad. I have gone back to the factory settings.

iWCbRXJTgfU

[Digital K]

how much are turbo rebuilds?

[fatmobile]

Does your oil supply line for the turbo have a restrictor in it?
I think the bearings usually have oil dripped on them, not a full flow and normal oil pressure.
Here's another link to some glow plug wiring setups:
http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=55021#55021

[sprstu]

im using just a straight line from the oilfilter housing to the turbo, nothing to restrict the flow. I was under the impression that this was the thing to do, I have read and seen other turbo diesels do this. if i am wrong and it is me giving the turbo too much oil that would be sweet, ill get a narrower line and a restrictor of some kind.

[sprstu]

I dont know how much a rebuild is, i would like to do it myself so if I could find a kit someplace. I have looked a little and have found only the rebuilds for the kkk k03-005 which comes in the 1.8T and I have the KKK K03-006 from a TDI, they are not compatible as the 005 is water and oil cooled where the 003 is only oil cooled.
I just found a new (chinese) KKK K03 over on volkswaparts.com for $300. if a rebuild is anywhere near that I might as well buy a new one.
le sigh.

[fatmobile]

Check around to see if I'm right.
It seems like there is a restrictor right on the oil filter housing, that the oil feedline threads to.

[sprstu]

run, drives, put 8 miles on it.

now i need to find the NA exhaust and play with the injector pump.

[hamradio]

you drove it without an exhaust manifold? Or just an open manifold? I ripped around the yard for a few miles with an open mani.

[sprstu]

just an open mani, no downpipe.

[hamradio]

doesn't it sound just frickin awesome? I love the sound of the open mani on the diesel.

Here's a little open manifold action, with bonus not being able to get into 2nd gear on my trip back.

ZS7lUIbyHg8

[sprstu]

hey, no hijacking!!!!
just kidding. I dont think I could rock the open exhaust around here. My truck gets enough bad looks and turned up noses as it is, I cant imagine what would happen with no exhaust. I already ahve a broken windshield, no front bumper and am about to lower it 3 inches.

[BimmerTim]

As for your turbo oiling issue. You need to get a super duper tiny restrictor and the biggest possible drain line. I did the exact same thing on my old turbo car. I have a restrictor that you could check out to see how small it needs to be. But I don't think it would work on that turbo.

Basically, the bearings just need a very small amount of oil to work and that oil needs to drain as easily as possible. I ruined 2 turbos before I learned my lesson. Finally I did end up getting it right. I'd hate to see you lose another one.

[hamradio]

I had the right restrictor in my TDI turbo, and a 1/2" drain, and it poured oil out the exhaust.

[sprstu]

well I am going to play around with the oil feed and drian for a while and see what happens. Im not giving up yet. I even have another K03 sitting around that can be used as parts of test mule.

[Wireclimer]

Damn you stuart. Post something.

[Digital K]

seriously.

[sprstu]

What can I say, i've been busy and not in the mood to load onto flickr, name and label then link to here.

Here is a breif recap of the last few weeks.

Oil Drain line turned out to be way too small, I dont know what we where thinking when this got planned out. We were using something like 3/8th ID rubber hose to drain an oil system that runs at over 20psi. I = Dumb. As we were going through this issue, my neighbor says 'ive got one of those turbos just sitting in my shop, you can have it'. So we check it out and sure enough he has a KKK K03 straight chillin on a shelf, the problem is that it came out of a jetta 1.8t so its no good to me as it sits, but what it does have is a monster huge oil drain tube. Big clue there. So we hooked that drain up to my turbo and just let it dump into a catch can below as the whole length of the drain was 6 inches longer than I can use, and bam, problem solved. No more oil spraying out of the charge or exhaust side of the turbo. I = smiles.
A few trips to Pirtek, about $20 later and and few cuts and I have a new drain tube that has a 5/8th interior diameter. (pics later)

Exhaust. I bought a brand new shinny downpipe from Kerma TDi, thing was amazing, then we cut it up. What I should have done was just buy the flex section and the turbo flange from them and saved myself a couple hundred dollars, but you live and learn with builds.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2297/2486390593_19b61f07fa.jpg?v=0
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Logan spent the better part of a week learning how to weld and make an exhaust, couldnt have done it without him as I am somewhat mechanically challenged. Sure, I could have done it, but it turned out way better and in a much faster timeframe because of him.
We ended up buying a section of 90degree 2inch pipe from checker, cutting this shit out of the kerma piece, the finishing the system off with some really nice 12ga 2 1/4 inch. We cut/turned the whole thing instead of doing what sane people do and buying the bends. This way we no there are no more restrictions in flow and it challenged us to fab up some parts and learn some shit.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/2713956033_ef28d78832.jpg?v=0
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We went straight out the middle then turned just behind the cab and dropped it about 2 inches from the frame rail so the opening is in line with the bottom of the cab, that way there are no hanging issues and it will never be too low to the ground once I get my suspension on. Plus now I have side port exhaust.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/2713973307_ebc333d626.jpg?v=0
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Next problem, Shifter.
Because of the downpipe orientation I was not able to shift into 2nd or 4th gear. The linkage moves towards the pass side and would contact the DP before the gear could be engaged. solution, shorten the shifter throw and rotate everything towards to driver side.
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This involved us cutting the top linkage arm, cutting the turning the linkage actuator shaft (thing). Problem solved? Nope.
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Once we did that we found that the linkage arm was now too short to throw into reverse or 3rd. Solution, lengthen the linkage arm actuator tab (thing). we moved it longer towards the engine correcting the shortening.
Now all we have to do is get one of those shifter ball things from a 5spd so when logan (lolz) overthrows it into first the linkage doesnt pop apart.
pics of that later.

[hamradio]

how's it drive with the turbo?

[Rhetoric]

Updates!

Rad exhaust you got there. I'm diggin' the progress thus far.

[Wireclimer]

it drives very nicely and can pull in 4th gear now. Still needs some tuning but Ill let stu say the rest since it is his car. :happydance:

[hamradio]

As for your shifter situation, why didn't you just cut the arm on that one relay shaft arm thing, and reweld it? it seems like cutting it and reangle-ing half of it, just enough to clear the dp, would work fine. Maybe your downpipe was more in the way than my turbo one was. :) I was looking into mine, it would've only needed to be shifted 5/8" or so.

Any vids? :)

Keep up the good work!

[sprstu]

How does it drive? very well. The factory setting for the intake release (apparently you cant call it a BOV because there isnt a throttle plate to open and close) well that thing, its set to 10psi which I think is a great place for this to be while still using the NA pump. Plus I really dont want to push the NA block very hard.
The acceleration isnt a huge huge improvement, but anything while cruising pulls really hard.
For those of you who have driven or own a 1.6d you understand what I mean when I say 'dead from a roll'. It seems like there is no response EVER when your driving along and you 'punch it' to merge or pass or do anything really. But now with the turbo, it spools from around 4-5 psi cruising up to 10-11 and pulls right away. Like a normal car would, nothing crazy.
It hasnt really helped on the top end, then again I havnt pushed it up there at all as Im still trying to figure out if what we did is going to stay a permanent thing or will blow my head gasket. Today after a spirited drive I took the valve cover off and re-torqued the head bolts to 66ft/lbs, and now that I have done that Ill give is a few more berries and see what happens.


The non-power assisted brakes are a bit soft. and by a bit I mean scary from 60 and if I had to lock em up I dont know that I could. But I also still have the solid front rotors, original rear shoes and drums and the master cylinder is out of a 78 rabbit which had a 17mm MC and my truck OEM is something like 21mm, so that will need to be upgraded in the future.

Also, my rad fan isnt coming on, ever, and that scares me a bit. I dont know if the fan motor is dead or its not getting signal or the sensors are bad, but that will have to be fixed very, very soon.
And on the coolant side of things, I need a NON-AC water pump pulley from a diesel, all the ones I have are Gas and they need to be shimmed out to get in line with the crank and Alt so it wobbles like a bitch and will jump off very soon im sure. scary there as well.

edit: it shifts fine, great in fact. Logan just cant seem to remember not to throw first WAY forward so the key/ball thing pop out the back of its spot. Once you figure that out, the distance I mean, it really feels better than OEM. I am really pleased with it. Needless to say Im not in a hurry to get the larger ball thing.

but, if youre in the north and you want to see/hear/drive let me know. Im in White bear/hugo just about 5 miles from Kris.

[fatmobile]

I've heard of folks bending that shifter lever up, to go over the turbo outpipe.

[sprstu]

turned up the fuel today to smooth out the idle and make more powaaaaa, and it worked! new clutch plus bigger tires = no burnouts but this thing really will pull all the way to 60 and is butt dyno twice as fast as it was NA.
Im all smiles.
now all i need to do is get my rad fan switch working...

[vweezly]

I'm so happy for you Stuart!!! Can't wait to see it. So rad that you got it runnin so quickly.

[hamradio]

vid please, for motivation. :)

good work!

[aaronmjr]

do you have a picture of the whole truck in it's current state? I wanna see this thing :thumbup:

[sprstu]

ill get some pics and vids once I wash it and have time this weekend.
I still need to get my cone filter on the turbo and get a valve cover filter, fix the rad fan then once my struts are back from the fixers, get low

[Digital K]

not hard to diagnose the fan circuit, glad you have it going! the brakes will be better once you replace the wheel cylinders and front brakes and such.

[hamradio]

My fan circuit is messed up. If I jump the terminals at the thermo switch, nothing happened. Messed with it for half an hour, some wiring issue between the terminals for the thermoswitch and relay. PO probably hacked it up somehow. I wired a switch into the wires that originally went into the thermoswitch, I just keep an eye on the coolant temp if I'm sitting in traffic or something.

[sprstu]

Thats probably what ill end up doing, the rad does a fantastic job (according to the temp gauge) when the truck is moving so ill wire in something temporary so i can turn it of and on. If someone had a slim pusher fan they'd be willing to sell...

[sprstu]

here are some basic pics taken at dusk so the light it terrible. someday ill pay kris to get some good shots, after the suspension goes on.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3108/2730552456_d116be035a.jpg?v=0

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[Hart]

Think I saw you cruising though White Bear last week around 10 in the morning

[sprstu]

yeah for sure. I im WB every morning delivering sandwiches to grandma's bakery, i live just north of downtown.

hers's and upshot of my system. I just got the filter on there tonight and boy does it make a difference in the sound. The cabin is almost tolerable to drive at highway speeds now. The K&n has a 2 1/4 opening where as the turbo intake is just shy of 2" so I cut a sleeve out of PVC to mate the extender 90 degree rubber piece then used a piece of 2" pipe (same as the intercooler pieces) to mate the filter to the 90 degree. It sits against the firewall and is almost as high up as the top of the engine. I do worry about long trips and engine temps effecting the intake temp, but my intercooler is doing a badass job so Ill worry about it when I have a problem.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3252/2730989514_c0d09467b3.jpg?v=0

Here is a shot of my monster oil drain to the pan. 5/8th ID.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2730989510_46020b367d.jpg?v=0

[fatmobile]

That is a fat return.
Hard to tell the angle of that lower 90.
Make sure the oil can't pool up enough to block the return.

[aaronmjr]

Very noice. body looks super solid!

[sprstu]

kinda crap video, taken with my kodak in one hand and steering/shifting with the other. ill get more and some better quality ones soon.
VWRfX1TItm0

[sprstu]

oh man, everything is going great, running good, looking good, boostin' great then your best friend takes his girl out for a quick spin into hugo to check some intake and charge pipe temps and shit falls apart.
'hey man, ummm, we're up here by mugustos welding, ummm, yeah. can you come get us? There was a bunch of smoke and a terrible smell, so i just shut her down and pulled over. the clutch is burnt, the turbo charge pipe blew off and it wont move'

gasp.


I show up expecting the worst, fire dept and police trying to put out fires, children screaming and women crying. I was pleasantly surprised.
so long story shortened, the master cylinder decided that locking up the front pass wheel would be hilarious at 11pm on a dark road in hickville. Myself, Logan and his girlfriend did not think it was funny.
Logan and I got into my E350 and pulled my trailer up to the truck thinking we would have to take apart calipers and drain brakes lines, maybe even take out the MC or one entire wheel and brake system, we had no idea what was wrong.
then i get behind the thing, give it a little push and she rolls. just like nothing had happened.
We jack up the front, driver wheel fine, pass wheel stuck. Jack up the back, both wheels spin freely.
We then proceed to unbolt the pass side brake line from the MC and guess what, the wheel free us. Put the line back on pump the bakes, wheel locks up again. problem MC. So without touching the brakes I drive it back to the shop without issue.

I bought the MC off some kid in OR, the car had been sitting for god knows how long before he decided to part it, we did very little by way of cleaning it out before bolting it in so its probably my fault. So now Im just going to upgrade the whole system, new 21mm MC (if itll fit), GTI front calipers and vented disks and new wheel bearings. I already have the rear wheel bearings and should get the drums turned and put some new shoes out back as well, 152xxx miles, im sure they're still factory.
Ill update with progress in a week or so as im going to madison tomorrow. Ben's Veedub shop here I come.

[Wireclimer]

Grr yah I was pissed. Lets put in the new dash so i can rewire all that crap and get this thing runnin like a champ. Send some pics of the IC set up to the soot rocket project if you have time today and do you remeber how advanced we set your timing?

[aaronmjr]

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:rock:

[sprstu]

yeah I know, I have the coils and drop plates already, im just waiting for my koni yellows to come back from the rebuilder. trust, itll go low.

[aaronmjr]

:beer:

[sprstu]

no suspension updates as of now, but here is a little vid.

ZPLx8Dj9k5Y

after watching it back I realized that my encoding really screwed up the audio.

[sprstu]

fuck shit suck shit fuckfuckfuckfuck.
Ill post pics later.

[Digital K]

:confused:

[aaronmjr]

uh oh. :thumbdown:

[vweezly]

Whaaaat?

[sprstu]

Tbelt.
merging onto hwy 100 north last night I got caught in a hairy situation where cars were absolutely going everywhere and I found a whole and gunned it to get out of the way. Dropped into 3rd about 50mph, boost spiked, revs redlined and when I hit 4th I heard the death rattle, the oh so familiar sound you get when a belt lets go and flies around under something metal, then a dead accelerator pedal. I knew what it was instantly, but in my head I really just wanted it to be the atl/waterpump belt. It wasnt. My t-belt slipped off the cam pulley at 65mph. I havnt opened it up yet to asses the damage.
so much time and energy, gone. i dont even know what to feel right now.
It was running so good too, about 500miles after a complete rebuild and everything was just staring to mesh together, the clutch was grabbing hard, it was idling perfect and the power (compared to non-turbo) was smooth and easy to drive. Now its back to scavenging for parts and plannign my next steps.
Maybe this time it'll be a TDi swap :)

[vweezly]

Holy crap Stuart. I am so sorry that happened. That is really sad bro.

[sprstu]

I took off the t-belt cover, low-and-behold the belt is still there and tight.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3042/2808888371_0dac10b612.jpg?v=0

but what is that little mark in the middle?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2319/2808888377_d103ebe2af.jpg?v=0

a fucking hole I could get my little finger through if I pushed real hard, thats what
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/2808888373_b554cb8b1b.jpg?v=0

I dont know how it happened, but since the t-belt cover was very very loose and I only took off one bold to remove it I think one of the bolts fell down into the assembly and got lodged some place then shot out through the belt.
The cams look fine, three of the 8 do have a little mark on them but it doesnt look like there was much trauma if any at all and none of the valve-guild things are even scratched, bonus. I still dont know what happened to cause the engine to stop dead at 60mph and have no throttle feel, like I just shut the engine down at speed (I didnt do that). I didnt try to restart it once I rolled onto the offramp either, I didnt want to do more damage if at all possible. So now it sits back in its home in my parking lot looking all sad waiting for me to have some time to dig around and see what the fuck happened.
In the meantime I am looking to buy a 5spd trans, a 1.6td injector pump, new glowplugs and a new timing belt so if anyone has anything let me know. i figure if i HAVE to take my shit apart again I might as well upgrade while Im at it. would save me the hassle later on.

[Rhetoric]

Holy close call. I'll do some digging on why it would just 'turn itself off.' The only thing I can think of right now is maybe the fuel stop solenoid in the pump closed itself... coincidentally at the same time the timing belt received a beating...

Just a suggestion, but if you do have to pull everything apart again, do ARP head studs with a Goetze head gasket. I'm running both on my NA and it's some high quality stuff.

[fatmobile]

Cam probably jumped a tooth.
Doesn't run well that way but doesn't usually hurt it.
Someone just had posted about this on our diesel forum:

"While driving my 92 Jetta TD to pick up my repaired motorhome (another story) my alt. belt disintigrated, a piece ripped off and punched a hole in my timing belt cover. Well a piece of the alt. belt got caught between the timing belt and the pulleys. Managed to limp off the busy street and into a hotel parking lot, the engine would barely run with the cold start lever out and sounded real bad. Went to a local hardware store and bought some tools, the cam shaft was out one tooth on the belt and the injection pump was almost a quarter turn out, how it managed to run was beyond me. Timed it in the parking lot, put on a new alt. belt and a way we went.

I changed the timing belt as soon as I got home, it had a hole right through it in one spot, the cam running one tooth out doesn't seem to have harmed it any, I couldn't feel any contact when I turned it over by hand before resetting the timing, so I'm hoping there wasn't any permanent damage.
"
I thought this was you at first,... timing belt with a hole right through it, that doesn't happen very often.
His was running after the event but he wasn't reving so high, maybe your injection pump jumped farther than his.

[sprstu]

thank you for posting that up fatmobile, give me some hope that no vavles were harmed in my little snafu.

There is some damage to my cam pulley, a few of the teeth have been dinged right around where the tbelt hole is and it doesnt line up exactly so it may have been exactly like that other guy. I havent dug around too much, maybe later today or tomorrow.

[hamradio]

good luck, hopefully nothing is really messed up. I'd offer up parts, but I don't really have anything of use to you. :(

[sprstu]

sugar we're going down.

I finally got some good condition koni yellows on the cheap so now I can actually do the suspension on my truck. Along with this will also be rear wheel bearings and shoes, because while its apart why not do some other important stuff?

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[hamradio]

What brand are the coils?

Did you figure out the engine issue, yet?

Should look even nicer, lowered!

[sprstu]

carrera coils, i dont know what the weight it, or stiffness, however they're measured but they came off a rabbit so they should work.
engine not damaged, just jumped like 6 teeth causing total fuel starvation leading to violent shut down, still have compression and no signs of valve trauma.
Now im just waiting on a fucking key set so I can replace my ignition and door locks as I lost the only key I had in st louis park, so if anyone has a friend whos parting a rabbit and has a lock set, i would be very interested in buying.

[hamradio]

I have a key and steering column you can have. And I could bust the door handles out of those old rocco doors I have...then you'd have a matched set.

[sprstu]

sold!!! pm me your address and when are you available? I know your hella away but ive wanted to see your rabbit for a while now anyway.

[Wireclimer]

Little Update

Installed Hamradio's Lock column after much screwing with the bearing sets and accidentally collapsing the column...

Removed about 10 ft of wire and rebuilt the harness to accept the non AC Heater Core and blower motor. Chopped out the old AC sub harness and vacuum set.

Cleaned off all the dash pieces to dye black.

Removed the old AC vent set in the rain tray.

[hamradio]

Wow, you guys get stuff done quick!

Did those door handles or latches work out?

[Wireclimer]

They worked out great, Your ignition set had a better electrical switch in it too. Locks are half way on the car, stripped out one of the column screws for a door handle, so that sucks but we will re-tap the thing.

You have seen how many cars we have. we have to move fast. :drool:

[hamradio]

The gtx was sweet. I'm also highly envious of the deal you guys got on the semi radiator hose.

[sprstu]

they come from Ambles in Minneapolis. Its more of a machine shop that happens to have a bunch of old truck stuff, mostly from big trucks. You just walk in and find the guy with the cigar in his mouth and ask, he'll point you up the stairs and just veer off to the left when you get there. Dont get distracted by the super organized way they keep everything in the world, stay on task. then go back and gawk on your own time, you have parts to buy!!!
heres a link
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&q=Ambles+Minneapolis&fb=1&cid=3816236217375317530&li=lmd&ll=44.966438,-93.246889&spn=0.029513,0.050039&z=14&iwloc=A

[hamradio]

So, it is literally $5 for a box of 20 or so? Does one have to pull them?

Is it actually organized, or is everything strewn about?

[sprstu]

well, I paid $20 for 12 90's and maybe 20 really nice worm drives. there really arnt prices on anything, if you pay cash. Its the kind of place you can make your own prices if youre not a douche and you have cash in hand. Its not a yard or anything, its like a giant machine shop with huge industrial metal cutters and ancient welding stuff along with just a shit load of everything. fuses, lights, wire, radiators, intercoolers, bolts and screws, hooks sockets bathtubs and old women, just everything. But it is not a wrecker yard, so dont expect cars about.

[sprstu]

it runs again, fucking sweet. I drove it around my parking lot with no dash, no lights and all the wiring hanging by my feet, just so i can say that i drove it again instead of 'it runs'. now all the work is in the details, after its all put together it may sadly see the underside of a tarp and a nice smooth space next to my dad's garage for the winter. I dont know how I feel about driving it in crap ass MN salt season seeing how it has no rust to speak of currently. I have a shitbox toyota to haul my ass around in the snow, I dont need to wreck a great MK1 shell.

[Hart]

Parking for the winter sounds like a good plan to me

[vweezly]

Details son. What was the verdict? And that is rad that you got to driver it again. Bet that is a weight off your shoulders. And I will get you soccer info today.

[Wireclimer]

The verdict was timing, I guess. When we dialed in the old timing we got alot of confusing results stuff that was both .10inch over and under our spec of .38inch we pulled the old belt and replaced it but had a fairly annoying time getting the bottom end and cam's locked in TDC with each other. The caddy has no markings on the pulleys! We then had to time the thing and reset the belt twice (I think) to get it all the way we wanted with the slack adjusted out of it.
Then The thing just would not start, Timing was still to far off and we got very confused. Reset the fuel pump timing several times and got it to start near midnight. Starts rough. Timing probably still to advanced. But the Turbo lines were not on while I was around so it could be right with those on. Defer to Stu on that one.

The prob with the NA mechanical fuel pump playing turbo pump is that the variation in timing for the turbo to work well seems to me to be just a little to advanced for the thing to start well when there is of course no boost.