What a Camber Toe....

[vweezly]

Anyone know of a machine shop that could make some camber plates for me? Does anyone know of a DIY with some plate designs? They would be for the front... not the rear obviously.

http://www.teamvw-speed.nl/Gallery/albums/2007/oxfordedition2007/DSC_7378_copy.jpghttp://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y247/tuvceo/rear%20camber/golf2G6039.jpg
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r253/gren737/camber3.jpg

[EWAustin]

http://www.teamvw-speed.nl/Gallery/albums/2007/oxfordedition2007/DSC_7378_copy.jpg


That is SO retarded I wanna :puke:

I have a set of BSI Racing camber plates you're welcome to inspect and make a set of plans from, but I'll need them back eventually. :biggrin:

Another thing to consider is PMing SUV-ETR on MNAutoX.com and asking if he's got any Mk1 goodies laying around that he'd part with for cheap. He's done a fair amount of trial and error in finding the ideal setup for his G60 Scirocco.

[Digital K]

doesnt ground control make some?

[KOOTER]

If you are trying to make a joke it did not go well. If your serious then they make shim kits to change the camber and toe in the rear for the VWs.

[vweezly]

Yes I think that rear camber is retarded as well... it was more of a joke. I know that they make shims for the rear and that I could machine some off the rear stub axle. I am lookin for front camber ideas. I'll pm that one dude eric. Thanks for the lead bro. It would be cool to look at yours as well. I know gc makes some too. I just think it would be great to make my own.

[possebmxer]

You guys did read the story behind that camber in pvw it was not intended to be like that i think that broke something before the show

[KOOTER]

Vws have camber adjustment on the strut pinch bolts in the front.If you need more than the range of adjustment you can just slot the holes a liittle more.

[Aaron]

Vws have camber adjustment on the strut pinch bolts in the front.If you need more than the range of adjustment you can just slot the holes a little more.


Really, it would be a bad idea to slot the holes on the spindle. That is one of the largest load bearing parts of the suspension. If I were you take some 1/4" plate steel and reinforce the upper strut towers and then slot that inwards to make an adjustment there.

Now for the geometry of it all.

If you set the camber at 0 deg. at the spindle with the strut and then control it at the top of the strut, the suspension is going to compress in a smoother, linear fashion, not kinked like KOOTER's idea will yield. There is a reason they make the plates for up top and not for down low.

Also my old ITB race car was set up this way and I had ZERO issues.


Good luck!

[KOOTER]

Really, it would be a bad idea to slot the holes on the spindle. That is one of the largest load bearing parts of the suspension. If I were you take some 1/4" plate steel and reinforce the upper strut towers and then slot that inwards to make an adjustment there.

Now for the geometry of it all.

If you set the camber at 0 deg. at the spindle with the strut and then control it at the top of the strut, the suspension is going to compress in a smoother, linear fashion, not kinked like KOOTER's idea will yield. There is a reason they make the plates for up top and not for down low.

Also my old ITB race car was set up this way and I had ZERO issues.


Good luck!

These are where they are adjusted from stock dipshit.Tell me they are doing it wrong.

[EWAustin]

These are where they are adjusted from stock dipshit.Tell me they are doing it wrong.

They're doing it wrong.


For a street car it's fine, but when you're dealing with a situation where thousands of a second count, you need all the help you can get, and that extra little bit of progressiveness (is that a word?) from tilting the whole strut in rather than just the knuckle can make a big difference. Not to mention you gain a wee-bit more tire clearance.

[Aaron]

Thanks Eric! Chuck, you speak so eloquently!!! There is no need to call me a dip shit. Set down the die grinder and think of the advice that you gave this guy. You want him to ream the holes on the Knuckle where there is already a minimal amount of material (and a large amount of stress). Why make it any easier to break it there. Wait I guess none of your cars have ever been to a real race track for you to witness other cars break where you want to remover material....


Also, the tire clearance that EWAustin is talking about is between the tire and the spring perch. This car is going to be raced so by setting it up with 0deg. of camber at the knuckle, there is going to be a few cm yield at the top of the tire. To get the outer clearance that he is going to need (event though he has mega wide flares) he will set 2 or 3 degrees of negative camber up top. By setting up the car this way, he is getting clearance in 2 places rather than taking some away to gain a little in another.

[KOOTER]

They're doing it wrong.


For a street car it's fine, but when you're dealing with a situation where thousands of a second count, you need all the help you can get, and that extra little bit of progressiveness (is that a word?) from tilting the whole strut in rather than just the knuckle can make a big difference. Not to mention you gain a wee-bit more tire clearance.

How much camber are you guys looking for?

[vweezly]

Wow... lots O comments! Thanks yall. I'm looking for race camber... nothing too insane (I refer to Aaron for camber settings :) ). The 1/4 inch steel at the tower is a good idea. Thanks Aaron. And yeah... I'm not at all worried about tire clearance :D.

[KOOTER]

Wow... lots O comments! Thanks yall. I'm looking for race camber... nothing too insane (I refer to Aaron for camber settings :) ). The 1/4 inch steel at the tower is a good idea. Thanks Aaron. And yeah... I'm not at all worried about tire clearance :D.

What kind of car is this?

[Digital K]

more helping, less name calling would be great.

[KOOTER]

more helping, less name calling would be great.

Suck it you hairy little troll :D

[EWAustin]

For Autocross on a Mk1 (IIRC) 3.5-4 degrees is appropriate for race rubber.

Send another PM to SUV-ETR for more details, he's the local BFB guru.

[KOOTER]

For Autocross on a Mk1 (IIRC) 3.5-4 degrees is appropriate for race rubber.

Send another PM to SUV-ETR for more details, he's the local BFB guru.

3.5-4 deg for autocross? This sounds more like something you would have on a track only car.Tire wear is extreme and every crack in the road is a both hands on the wheel situation.

[EWAustin]

3.5-4 deg for autocross? This sounds more like something you would have on a track only car.Tire wear is extreme and every crack in the road is a both hands on the wheel situation.

Yup.

We're talking about a dedicated GRM car here...

[vweezly]

What kind of car is this?

It's this:
http://www.ghostmedical.com/medical/clientarea/client/name/In%20House%20Stuff/Joel/FlareTest04.jpg

I want the ability to be able to change the camber back to stock as well. That's why I wanted the adjustability. I will keep those numbers in mind yall.

[Aaron]

Where are you located? If you want, I'd be more than happy to stop by and hash some things out on this with you. With my recommendation, you can mark the upper tower and adjust it very quickly (if you had to drive the car home as an example!)

[vweezly]

Where are you located? If you want, I'd be more than happy to stop by and hash some things out on this with you. With my recommendation, you can mark the upper tower and adjust it very quickly (if you had to drive the car home as an example!)

I agree... and the car is in Minneapolis in my friend's garage. I may be workin on it on sunday. I can let you know. PM me your number and I can let you know. :beer:

[Janasty]

It's this:
http://www.ghostmedical.com/medical/clientarea/client/name/In%20House%20Stuff/Joel/FlareTest04.jpg


this car gives me that warm and fuzzy feeling:wub:

[EWAustin]

Not gonna link (NSFW), but every time I hear "warm and fuzzy feeling" I think of that video on that .com site that uses the quote above as the address...

Thanks Joel...